Wednesday, July 11, 2007

bread baking 2

Announcing BBD #2: Bread with Fruit

If there’s one thing that’s in season all around the world right now, it’s fruit. Here in the Northern Hemisphere, we’re enjoying berries, peaches, and all of the goodness summer has to offer. Our friends in the Southern Hemisphere aren’t quite as lucky - since it is winter there, their fruit choices are more limited, and they’re enjoying winter fruits and preserved (frozen, canned, dried) fruit. In the grand scheme, though, everyone can access fruit in one form or another.

One thing that we all have in common is our passion for baking. And this month, I’d like you to include fruit in your bread recipes. It can be any kind of bread (yeast, quick, etc) and any kind or form of fruit (fresh, dried, preserves, etc). So the guidelines are simple. It has to be a bread and it has to have fruit in some form. Let your creativity guide you! Use your farmers markets for inspiration. Most of all, have fun and bake something delicious!

breadbakingday2

How to participate?
Bake a bread with fruit, take pictures (if possible) and blog about it between now and Sunday, 1st of August 2007. Please include a link to this announcement and eventually a link to the round-up. The round-up will be posted in a few days after the 1st of August.

Send an email to columbusfoodie(at)gmail(dot)com with the subject “BBD #2″ including
- your name
- your blog’s name and your blog’s URL
- the recipe name and the post’s URL
- your location
- for non-English posts, the language it is in
- if you’d like a pic included with your submission, please include it in the email. I can resize it.

I believe that Zorra is still looking for people to host, so if you would like to host one of the next breadbakingday, send me an e-mail to kochtopf (at) gmail (dot) com.

Also, please feel free to use the banner in your posts, which mgb was so kind to make. Just right click on it to save it.

SHF 33

Sugar High Friday 33

shf_tropical_lg


I'm proud to host the 33rd edition of Sugar High Friday "Tropical Paradise". Domestic Goddess Jennifer, the originator of Sugar High Friday, kicked off the food blogosphere's travelling sweet tooth extravaganza in October 2004. Since her inaugural white chocolate theme to her dessert cravings last month, we've seen all sorts of sugary goodness made from puff pastry to coffee to soy to flowers.

The rules are simple: Make it sweet and make it tropical. So whether you live in a tropical locale, are relaxed and tan from a recent tropical vacation, or just daydreaming of one, create something sweet and write about why it says "tropical" to you.

Please post your SHF #33 Tropical Paradise creation on your blog anytime between now and Monday July 23th. I will post the SHF round-up on Friday, July 27th.

Email your submission to me at
shf_cont
Please include the following information:
1. Your name and location
2. The name of your blog
3. The permalink to your SHF #33 post
4. 100x100 pixel image of your creation (photo is optional)

The deadline for emailing your submission to me is Tuesday, July 24th.

No blog? No problem. Just email me your name and location, the name of your tropical creation and, if you have one, a 100x100 image. I'll be happy to include your submission in my round-up.

Monday, July 2, 2007

mascarpone lasagna (once upon a tart)

mascarpone lasagne for the lazy cook


if you are an italian, you might wanna chop off both my hands and legs, if you read this recipe. this is a recipe for the lazy cook. a lasagne that is pulled together in about 15 minutes ("impossibile!", you might shout). let me mention, that it is - probably not italian - but really good and creamy. the parma ham and the porchinis add a wonderful spicy flavour and make this a wonderful comfort dish, that's done in a dash.
i do it all without a white sauce, but use mascarpone instead (easy, no cookin'!). even though it's not friday yet, it is my contribution for this weeks presto pasta night, hosted by the lovely ruth. girls - now do we like lazy lasagne nor not?



RECIPE

2 tablespoons of olive oil
2 shallots, finely diced
1 garlic clove, finely chopped
a hand full of dried porchinis, soaked in hot water
about 800g of canned plum tomatoes
a pinch of sugar
salt and freshly ground pepper
a hand full of fresh basil, roughly chopped
250g fresh pasta sheets
5 slices of parma ham
250g mascarpone
about 300g mozzarella, torn in pieces
some parmesan cheese, for "dusting"
fresh basil, to garnish

heat the oven to 190 c°.

heat the olive oil in a pan and cook shallots and garlic until soft, add porchinis and cook for about 2 minutes. then add the plum tomatoes, season with sugar, salt and pepper and simmer for about 15 minutes, then add the chopped basil.
lightly oil a large dish, then add a layer of tomato sauce, then add some of the mozzarella, cover generously with mascarpone and grate some parmesan cheese on top. add layer of parma ham, then cover with fresh pasta sheets. continue - finishing with a layer of tomato sauce, then add some mascarpone & mozzarella. generously season with freshly ground pepper.

bake for about 40 minutes until everything is melted and fragrant. dust with some more parmesan before serving and garnish with fresh basil.

rhubarb brulee tarts (a whisk and a spoon)

Rhubarb Brûlée Tartlettes with Ginger - makes 6 servings
adapted from Regan Daley’s In the Sweet Kitchen

6 (4 1/2 -inch) pâte brisée tartlette shells, pre-baked, cooled and left in their forms
1 1/2 T redcurrant or plum jelly
2 scant T finely chopped crystallized ginger
1/2 cup turbinado sugar for brûlée

for the rhubarb:
3/4 pound rhubarb stalks, washed, trimmed and cut into 3-inch lengths
1/4 cup plus 1 T packed light brown sugar

for the custard:
2 cups heavy cream
1/2 vanilla bean, split and scraped
4 egg yolks
1/4 cup plus 1 T granulated sugar
1 T unsalted butter, cut into bits
pinch of salt

- For the rhubarb: Place the cut rhubarb and light brown sugar into a pot over low heat. Cover and cook (gently stirring a few times) for 5 to 10 minutes until the rhubarb is tender, but still holds shape. Drain and cool the rhubarb to room temperature before using, or refrigerate if making ahead. Either discard the juice from the drained rhubarb, or reduce it to syrup consistency if desired for plating.

- For the custard: Set up a water bath by bringing about two inches of water to a simmer in a large pot and setting a heatproof bowl on top. Pour cream into a separate small saucepan and add the pinch of salt and the seeds and pod from the vanilla bean. Pot the pot on medium heat to scald the cream. Put the yolks and sugar in the bowl set over the gently simmering water bath. While cream is heating, constantly whisk the yolk mixture over the water bath. When cream is scalded and the yolk mixture is thick and pale, temper the cream into the yolks. Leave the mixture over the water bath, stirring constantly with a spoon until it thickly coats the back. This will take 5 to 7 minutes. Strain the custard through a fine sieve and stir in the butter until melted and incorporated. Press plastic onto the surface to avoid a skin and refrigerate until cool.

- Assembling the tartlettes: Preheat the oven to 325°F/170°C. Place the tartlette shells on a flat baking sheet. Gently melt the jelly and brush the bottoms of the shells with a thin layer. Spoon a couple of tablespoons of cooked rhubarb into the shells and smooth out. Divide the chopped ginger among the shells and spoon custard on top. If desired, place a few nicely shaped pieces of rhubarb across the top. Bake for 25 to 30 minutes. The filling should be a little jiggly in the center, but slightly set around the edges. Cool the tarts on a rack (the custard will further set). Place in the refrigerator if not eating within two hours (although you should not prepare them more than five hours in advance, according to Daley).

- To serve: Remove the tartlettes from their shells and sprinkle on the turbinado sugar. Using a kitchen torch, melt and caramelize the sugar. If you have placed some rhubarb on top of the tarts like I did, sprinkle sugar and brûlée AROUND the exposed pieces. They will burn if you torch them. Serve immediately with the rhubarb syrup, if using.

Thursday, June 28, 2007

chocolate cherry cafloutis - la tartine gourmande

Chocolate and Cherry Clafoutis
(For 4 individual clafoutis)

You need:

  • 14 oz cherries
  • 2 large eggs
  • 3/8 cup whole milk
  • 1.5 Tbsp cornstarch
  • 2 Tbsp all-purpose flour
  • 2 oz dark chocolate at 65 or 70 % cocoa, as you prefer
  • 4 Tbsp butter
  • 2.5 Tbsp cane sugar
  • Confectioner’s sugar, to sprinkle

Steps:

  • In a bowl, mix 1 egg with 1 Tbsp sugar and add the milk. Add 1 Tbsp sifted flour and keep on the side.
  • Melt the butter and chocolate in a double-boiler.
  • Beat 1 egg with the rest of the sugar until pale in color.
  • Add the rest of flour and cornstarch. Mix well.
  • Add the butter/chocolate and mix well. At this point, you will mix the two preparations together.
  • Preheat your oven at 350 F.
  • Take 4 individual baking molds and grease them.
  • Wash the cherries and remove the stalks (or not) and arrange them at the bottom of the molds.
  • Divide the cream between them and place in the oven for 20 min remove and let cool slightly.
  • When ready to serve, sprinkle with confectioner’s sugar.

Thursday, June 21, 2007

cherry upside-down cake (cook and eat)

Cherry Upside Down Cake
makes one 5 inch cake

2 cups fresh cherries, pitted
1 t dried orange zest
1 t sugar
a sprinkling of cardamom
Génoise cake batter, 1/2 recipe
powdered sugar to dust, if desired

Preheat oven to 350F.

Line a 5 inch round or 5 x 4 inch rectangular baking pan with the pitted cherries. Sprinkle with the orange zest, sugar and cardamom. Set aside.

Prepare the cake batter. Once folded all together, pour about 1 cup over the cherries, and give them a little stir to prevent air pockets from forming. Top with the remaining batter.

Bake for 30 minutes, or until the cake bounces back when lightly touched. Let it cool on a wire rack.

Use a knife to cut around the edge of the cake to release it from the pan. You may need to use a flexible spatula to loosen the bottom some to help remove it. Place the serving plate on top of the baking pan, and then flip the whole thing over.

To improve this cakes appearance for serving, trim off the edges of the cake, exposing the golden-yellow sponge and the piece of cherry. Dust with the powdered sugar if desired.

Out of a Packing Box, Not Stuff, but Souls

June 21, 2007
Close to Home


I WAS initiated young into the cult of clutter. Opening a drawer in my childhood kitchen meant finding birthday cards sticky from a leaking pen, a recipe for moussaka never made, bits of yarn and a Hot Wheels car missing a door. Occasionally, my mother attempted organization by topic (Vacation Ideas, Children’s Vaccinations, Restaurants to Try), but she never got hanging files, so the folders slipped and slid over one another. Dad had a secretary at work to organize his papers, and at home he directed seasonal weekend purges that inevitably threw Barbies out with the bath water.

Years later, my mother continued to reprimand him for discarding my Malibu Skipper and Francie. She didn’t care about the potential “fortune he’d thrown away,” as she put it; it was the principle of the matter. How could he have tossed his daughter’s dolls? After all, she had kept her favorite, circa 1934: a porcelain creature with patches of scratchy woolen hair and hinged joints that made her heavy limbs flop creepily against my skin when I picked her up.

I’d be different, I vowed. And I was. Once I was living on my own, I favored a streamlined Scandinavian aesthetic, relegating clutter to the past, to my childhood bedroom with its Charlie the Tuna lamp and dusty seashells. And yet my vow was based — however unconsciously — on the knowledge that those items would stay with Mom and Dad, who would always be there.

And then, a year ago, I bought my first home. On moving day I stood at the top of the stairs to direct the flow of boxes and furniture, most of which I’d acquired during 20 years of apartment living but much of which I’d inherited from my parents, who had both died during the past few years. By 4 p.m. I was toasting the view of San Francisco Bay with a glass of wine and fantasizing about which object would go where. I imagined unpacking and arranging as the most intentional and pleasing of tasks, in which I would lovingly place each treasure in just the right spot. Finally, after two decades of rentals, I had a place that was all mine, to do with as I pleased.

But first, I had a deadline for a book. The boxes would have to wait. I cleared enough space for a laptop and a cup of coffee and a pathway to the bed, shower and stove, and got to work.

For two months, I lived in the present, happily, productively, eight to nine hours a day. The boxes served as background, neither impediment nor distraction, just something I’d turn to in time. I made my deadline and went away for a few weeks.

When I returned, the boxes were still there. But now they gave off the stink of Sisyphean obligation. Waking in the morning to the prospect of unpacking, I’d feel torpor drape over me like a lead apron. I’d lift an item — a teacup, a needlepoint pillow reading “This Mess Is a Place” — and aimlessly wander the room before placing it back in the box. In my parents’ cupboards, three generations of teacups had felt earned, necessary, part of the past I wanted to keep. But now they felt like more than I knew what to do with.

One day I turned to Photos & Stuff, six boxes labeled in my father’s chicken scratch. I reached for the box cutter, but the cardboard was so soft that the flaps almost fell apart in my hands as I started sneezing from the dust. These were old boxes, the contents in no particular order.

The year of my birth seemed as good an organizational device as any, so I made two piles, Before 1961 and After 1961, and draped a Hefty bag over a chair for trash. Most decisions came easily. I didn’t need two pictures of blurry pink bougainvillea against a whitewashed wall, or 10 shots of my nephew with his chubby fist in his first birthday cake. But the accumulated glimpses — Mom’s smile, Dad’s eyes crinkled in laughter — added up and, after 10 minutes, I was worn out.

I was halfway through a roll from a trip my parents had taken to Grand Teton National Park in 1995, flinging scenic vista after scenic vista into the Hefty bag, when my hand stopped. A shot of a wooden chapel on the edge of a field glorious with lupine. I recognized the scene from a moment of family lore: in 1970 my brother, then 3, had walked into that empty chapel to recite the Lord’s Prayer without prompt. He’d died in 1994, the year before Mom returned to the spot and took the photo.

I wasn’t just the person deciding which pile it went into; I was the only person alive who understood why it had been taken in the first place. If I threw it away, I was throwing away layers of emotion and association and identity. And if I kept it, well what then? The clutter of my childhood had never gone away; it had just been packed up to land smack-dab in my present, where I had to deal with it alone. Sure, I’d bought the place and chosen the paint colors and the fabric to reupholster dad’s favorite chairs, but suddenly, untenably, my space no longer felt all mine. I threw the Hefty bag in the trash and shoved the Photos & Stuff back in the hall closet.

A week later my friend Eva came over, and we pulled everything out of the hall closet, including Photos & Stuff (as well as a television remote I’d given up for gone and 40 years of Christmas ornaments and the backpack found in my brother’s car after he died). With Eva at my side, I opened a box with curiosity more than dread and handed her my brother’s obituary, my parents’ wedding invitation.

“Your brother was so handsome,” she said. I reached in again, lifting out a manila folder on which Mom had written my name; in it, she’d kept every clipping from every reading I’d ever given. And then my fingers brushed something furry: the needlepoint pillow reading “This Mess Is a Place.” I must have stashed it here that day I found it. Now I recalled it hanging from a cabinet door in my childhood kitchen. I held it up, making a face.

Eva met my eyes. She too had lost both parents. She too was the only surviving child.

“I have my father’s polyester pajamas,” she said. “I can’t bear to throw them out, but what are you supposed to do with blue polyester pajamas? They were the last thing he wore before he went to the hospital.”

I looked around the room as if for the first time. Not the way I saw it when the real estate broker showed it to me, but with the boxes finally cleared away. My mother would never see how good her farm table looked on my new rug, but there it sat. My father had never climbed the stairs to exclaim, “This is wonderful, honey,” although I’d heard his voice say that many times. My brother would never stand by my side on the deck, pointing at the north tower of the Golden Gate Bridge and explaining just how he made it to the top.

“Come to Colorado next summer,” Eva said. She and her husband had recently bought an adobe farmhouse in the mountains. “Bring your photos. I’ve got my mother’s. We’ll go through them. We’ll tell each other the stories.”

Wednesday, June 20, 2007

Old MacDonald Now Has a Book Contract

June 20, 2007

JOHN PETERSON is not your typical farmer. He is prone to wearing feather boas while driving his tractor and to putting on a bumblebee suit and breaking into interpretive dance between rows of organic vegetables. And while some farmers hunker down with seed catalogs in the off-season, Mr. Peterson takes a sabbatical from his farm, Angelic Organics, in Caledonia, Ill., and spends the winter in San Miguel de Allende, Mexico, writing as often as he can. Over the years he has written plays, short stories, a cookbook and a newsletter that he sends to his customers.

While his sideline may seem unusual, it places Mr. Peterson smack in the middle of an emerging literary movement: farmers who write. Their work encompasses a wide range of styles, from the homespun, mimeographed zine Farm News (which Sean Whalen, a Vermont farmer, seems to bang out on a malfunctioning vintage typewriter) to the polished op-ed page pieces sent out from Wes Jackson’s nonprofit advocacy group, the Land Institute.

Many of these writers say they are responding to the increased public appetite for food’s back story. As they reveal their personalities, histories and insights, they bridge the distance between the people who grow food and the people who eat it. It’s no coincidence that many of these writers operate small or midsize farms and sell directly to the public, either through farmers’ markets or community-supported agriculture programs, or C.S.A.’s, in which customers purchase shares of a farm’s harvest.

In a phone interview from his apartment in Mexico, Mr. Peterson said that the newsletters helped him nurture his relationship with the 1,300 families who buy his produce. After he lost much of his family’s farm in Illinois, it was the members of the C.S.A. he formed years later who rose up to help restore it. (This story is told in a documentary, “The Real Dirt on Farmer John,” which opens nationally on Friday.) But those newsletters also gave him a creative outlet, he said; a way of reconciling his artistic bent with his love of farming.

“For me, farming is drama,” he said. “Writing about it is just another way to be in the agricultural experience.”

Publishers have picked up on this trend. “We’re in a farm phase,” said Maria Guarnaschelli, an editor at W. W. Norton. Given the success of recent books about the food chain like “The Omnivore’s Dilemma,” by Michael Pollan, she said, it made sense that readers would go straight to the source and start reading the works of farmers.

Ms. Guarnaschelli is working on a book with Andy Griffin, a farmer in Watsonville, Calif., who wrote for The Santa Cruz Sentinel and now contributes to Edible San Francisco, one of 30 free magazines focused on local food scenes published by Edible Communities. The magazines have become the unofficial literary journals of the farmer-writer movement.

A few years ago, Mr. Griffin said, “it became clear that our customers wanted to know where their food was coming from.” So, once a week or so, he parks his truck near his fields and jots down some thoughts about the vegetables growing there.

One of his most popular pieces was written after the death of George Harrison in 2001. After describing how he once spotted the former Beatle in Salinas, California’s hub of commercial farming, Mr. Griffin managed to find a thematic thread linking his red carrots to the musician’s alternative world view.

Starting in 1999, Mr. Griffin sent e-mails of his writings — which blend humor, politics, history and cooking tips from his wife, Julia Wiley — to his customers, who often forwarded them to friends. The newsletter, known as The Ladybug Letter, was sent to about 7,000 subscribers before he abandoned e-mail in favor of a blog this year.

Last fall the chef Peter Hoffman was host of a dinner at Savoy, his restaurant in Manhattan, in which Mr. Griffin and three other farmers read from their work while ingredients they had grown were served. Tim Stark of Eckerton Hill Farm in Lenhartsville, Pa., who sells his sought-after heirloom tomatoes at the Union Square Greenmarket and is working on a memoir for Doubleday, spoke about foraging elderberries. Also in the lineup was Keith Stewart, another Union Square seller, who wrote “It’s a Long Road to a Tomato” (Marlowe, 2006). Note to harried urbanites thinking of taking up the simple life: read this unromantic tale before you give up your day job.

Mr. Hoffman said he differentiated the recent crop of farmers who write from those like Joel Salatin, who writes what Mr. Hoffman called how-tos and polemics about sustainable farming, and Wendell Berry, whose novels, poems and essays celebrate traditional agrarian values and the merits of rural living. The focus of this new group, Mr. Hoffman said, is less ambitious, is often directed at consumers, and largely concerns “the daily life of producing food.”

Their work has flourished in magazines. “It’s really important to me to give farmers a voice,” said Ruth Reichl, the editor of Gourmet, who published a piece by Mr. Stark about his troubles with gophers after a chef at a Manhattan restaurant slipped her a draft of it one day at lunch.

But many farmers, used to selling directly to customers, have cut out the middlemen in their writing careers, too. Deborah Madison, the chef and cookbook author, said so many farmers were writing electronic newsletters that her inbox was often swamped. “When it comes to market day, of course, they’re all too busy to think, let alone talk,” she wrote in an e-mail message.

In “Blithe Tomato” (Great Valley, 2006), her brother, Mike Madison, writes about the farmers’ market in Davis, Calif., where he sells his produce and flowers. His short, sharp pieces draw readers into the psychological landscape of a small-scale farmer, but they also reflect his observations of his customers: the people who swoon at the scent of lilacs, a colorful character he calls the Old Basque, and a man with a faraway look and a jittery woman (who finally appear grounded after Mr. Madison notices them hand in hand).

Michael Ableman, who farms in British Columbia, believes that many farmers are hard-wired for storytelling. “A good writer is first and foremost a great observer,” said Mr. Ableman, the author, most recently, of “Fields of Plenty” (Chronicle, 2005), which describes a trip he took to visit farms he admired. “And that’s what makes a good agriculturalist, too.”

David Mas Masumoto, a third-generation peach and grape farmer in Del Rey, Calif., and the author of several books, agrees. “There’s a long tradition of writing on the farm,” he said, noting that farmers kept journals to remember what seeds they planted, when the rain came and what their fields looked like through the year.

“I’ve seen some that are very basic, with dates and numbers, and others are rather literary,” he said. The practice faded in recent decades as farming became more automated and less dependent on the senses. Even so, Mr. Masumoto keeps a notepad in his pocket when he is in the field and refers to it when he is writing in the evening.

Like many farmers who have taken up writing, Shannon Hayes is a prodigal child of agriculture, having left her parents’ farm near Cobleskill, N.Y., to sow her wild oats (and to earn a Ph.D. from Cornell in rural sociology). She took classes in fiction writing, but it was not until she turned to the topic of farming that she found her voice.

“I had to discover my victim niche,” she said. “I’m an upstate farm girl. And you know what they say: write what you know.”

Ms. Hayes said she started writing cookbooks because her customers, including some chefs, did not know how to cook the pasture-raised beef she and her parents produced at their Sap Bush Hollow Farm. Her books, “The Grassfed Gourmet Cookbook” (Eating Fresh, 2003) and “The Farmer and the Grill” (Left to Write Press, 2007), are authoritative and accessible, with stories about how farming methods affect flavor.

By no means is she the only writing farmer with a graduate degree. “At one point we had four M.F.A.’s on the farm,” said Scott Chaskey, a Long Island farmer whose book “This Common Ground” (Viking, 2005) is rich with the luminous, earthy details one expects from a man whose business card reads “farmer-poet.” He believes writing and farming are complementary vocations.

“I think it has something to do with the solitude, the magic, of the back field,” he said. “That’s what both a farmer and a writer cherish.”

OT - nancy drew

Mystery Of the Girl Sleuth
__

By Ruth Marcus
Wednesday, June 20, 2007; A19

Among my many failings as a parent has been my inability to convince my daughters to read Nancy Drew.

As a child, I didn't so much read Nancy Drew mysteries as devour them, from yellow cover to yellow cover. I would no sooner be done with "The Secret in the Old Attic" than I would start in on "The Mystery of the Tolling Bell."

I wanted to Be Like Nancy -- who wouldn't? She was smart and adventuresome, quick-thinking and fearless, the epitome of independence in her sporty blue roadster.

Perhaps most important for a girl reading Nancy in the early 1960s, she showed that girls could have it all, complete with a wardrobe of sweater sets and sheaths, and a boyfriend, the endlessly tolerant Ned Nickerson, who never got in the way of her sleuthing.

"Nancy manages the almost impossible feat of being wholesomely 'feminine' -- glamorous, gracious, stylish, tactful -- while also proving herself strong, resourceful, and bold," novelist Bobbie Ann Mason wrote in "The Girl Sleuth."

Years after I was officially too old for Nancy, I would sometimes go down to the basement -- alas, no secret passageway -- and spend a cozy afternoon curled up with Nancy.

I was not, of course, alone in this passion. Conceived by a man but, for the most part, written by women under the pseudonym Carolyn Keene, Nancy has sold more than 200 million copies since 1930. Justice Ruth Bader Ginsburg has attributed her feminist streak to "growing up on Nancy Drew."

"Here was somebody who was doing things," Ginsburg told me. "She was fearless. She was what every girl would like to be."

The Somali Dutch feminist Ayaan Hirsi Ali had the same reaction decades later. "From the time I started reading novels of Nancy Drew and Hardy Boys, I wanted to be like Nancy Drew," she told "60 Minutes."

So when I had daughters, I was sure it was a matter of time before Nancy became part of their lives. Yet I had no luck. Perhaps it was the old-fashioned design I find so comforting and familiar that turned them off -- the fusty typeface, the stylized cover paintings of titian-haired Nancy in sensible shirtdress.

Now, my 12-year-old is irretrievably beyond the Nancy zone. She is deep into a truly odious series, the Clique books, about a group of popular rich girls, which seem to be more product placement than novel. She just finished a book called "You Are So Not Invited to My Bat Mitzvah!" Nancy Drew, it's safe to say, didn't know from bat mitzvahs.

But the Nancy Drew movie has come along in time for Julia, 10. Anything that gets turned into a movie can't be that bad, even if your mother likes it. And so, in the past few weeks, Julia has started reading Nancy -- first, "The Secret of the Old Clock," now, "The Hidden Staircase."

Julia and I went to see the movie last week. I was braced to hate it; the movie is set in the present, Nancy leaves River Heights for California, and I imagined Nancy turned Valley Girl. Omigod, it's a clue! Instead, the creators let Nancy be Nancy, with her Peter Pan collars, knee socks and penny loafers, but also with a laptop and iPod.

I hope the movie will generate more Nancy readers, but I have a theory about why the series is not as popular among girls today as in my generation or Justice Ginsburg's. It came to me as Julia and I were watching the most recent Democratic candidate debate. Hillary Clinton-- yes, Nancy Drew was her favorite as a girl, too -- began to talk about "when I become president."

Truth is, whenever I hear the senator say that, I cringe. It sounds, to my 40-something ear, awfully presumptuous, the kind of boasting that nice girls don't do. But Julia had a different reaction. "That was good," she pronounced, unprompted. "It made her seem very confident, like she was in charge."

This, I think, is the difference between her generation and those that have gone before: Girls now don't need Nancy Drew. They know what we had to learn -- that self-confidence is something to celebrate, not suppress; that they don't need to apologize for being assertive, or even, heaven forbid, ambitious.

For us, Nancy Drew was revolutionary. Today, she's the new normal.

Monday, June 18, 2007

canneles (tartlette)

Canneles Pretenders:

Makes 12 muffin sized ones

750 milk (2 1/2 cups)
50 gr butter (1 1/2 oz)
3 eggs plus 3 egg yolks
300 gr granulated sugar (10 oz)
1 Tb vanilla extract
6 Tb rum
150 gr all purpose flour (5 1/4 oz)

In a saucepan, bring the milk to a simmer, add the butter cut into dices. Mix well and let cool to lukewarm.
In a bowl, mix the eggs, egg yolks, sugar and vanilla and whisk until foamy. Slowly add the rum and flour. Add the milk slowly and whisk until smooth. Pass it through a sieve if neessary.
Let the batter rest in the fridge for a ouple of hours or overnight. (I make mine the day before)
When the batter has rested, preheat the oven to 425F and divide it evenly among the muffin tins, generously coated with cooking spray or well buttered. Bake for 45 minutes to an hour.
If you can wait, you will find that they are better the next day.

Apologies to all "canneles" purists but what is a girl to do when the cravings strike and cannot wait?

Friday, June 15, 2007

cherry clafouti - dessert first

Img_1490a

Cherry Clafouti

adapted from Dorie Greenspan's Paris Sweets

makes one 9-in clafouti or (8) 2 1/2-in ramekins

3 large eggs

6 tablespoons (75 g) sugar

1 cup (240 g) crème fraîche

2 teaspoons vanilla bean paste

11 ounces (330 g) cherries, pitted (you may need fewer cherries if you make individual clafoutis depending on how many you can fit in the ramekins)

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees F. Butter a 9-in baking dish or pie plate, or individual ramekins, and place on a baking sheet.

Whisk the eggs together in a mixing bowl.

Add in the sugar and whisk to combine.

Add in the crème fraîche and whisk just until incorporated.

Whisk in the vanilla bean paste.

Stir in the cherries gently.

Pour the batter into the prepared pan, making sure the cherries are distributed evenly.

Bake in the oven for about 25 minutes (if you are making individual ramekins, be sure to check halfway through to see if they are baking faster) until the batter looks puffed and golden and is set in the center.

Let clafouti cool for about 15 minutes out of the oven before serving. You can also serve at room temperature - it will keep for about 12 hours.

Tuesday, June 12, 2007

gateau de crepes - smitten kitchen

Gâteau de Crêpes
New York Times, 5/15/05

For the crepe batter:
6 tablespoons butter
3 cups milk
6 eggs
1 1/2 cups flour
7 tablespoons sugar
Pinch salt

For the vanilla pastry cream:
2 cups milk
1 vanilla bean, halved and scraped
6 egg yolks
1/2 cup sugar
1/3 cup cornstarch, sifted
3 1/2 tablespoons butter

For the assembly:
Corn oil
2 cups heavy cream
1 tablespoon sugar or more
3 tablespoons Kirsch
Confectioners’ sugar.

1. The day before, make the crepe batter and the pastry cream. Batter: In a small pan, cook the butter until brown like hazelnuts. Set aside. In another small pan, heat the milk until steaming; allow to cool for 10 minutes. In a mixer on medium-low speed, beat together the eggs, flour, sugar and salt. Slowly add the hot milk and browned butter. Pour into a container with a spout, cover and refrigerate overnight.

2. Pastry cream: Bring the milk with the vanilla bean (and scrapings) to a boil, then set aside for 10 minutes; remove bean. Fill a large bowl with ice and set aside a small bowl that can hold the finished pastry cream and be placed in this ice bath.

3. In a medium heavy-bottomed pan, whisk together the egg yolks, sugar and cornstarch. Gradually whisk in the hot milk, then place pan over high heat and bring to a boil, whisking vigorously for 1 to 2 minutes. Press the pastry cream through a fine-meshed sieve into the small bowl. Set the bowl in the ice bath and stir until the temperature reaches 140 degrees on an instant-read thermometer. Stir in the butter. When completely cool, cover and refrigerate.

4. Assemble the cake the next day: Bring the batter to room temperature. Place a nonstick or seasoned 9-inch crepe pan over medium heat. Swab the surface with the oil, then add about 3 tablespoons batter and swirl to cover the surface. Cook until the bottom just begins to brown, about 1 minute, then carefully lift an edge and flip the crepe with your fingers. Cook on the other side for no longer than 5 seconds. Flip the crepe onto a baking sheet lined with parchment. Repeat until you have 20 perfect crepes.

5. Pass the pastry cream through a sieve once more. Whip the heavy cream with the tablespoon sugar and the Kirsch. It won’t hold peaks. Fold it into the pastry cream.

6. Lay 1 crepe on a cake plate. Using an icing spatula, completely cover with a thin layer of pastry cream (about 1/4 cup). Cover with a crepe and repeat to make a stack of 20, with the best-looking crepe on top. Chill for at least 2 hours. Set out for 30 minutes before serving. If you have a blowtorch for creme brulee, sprinkle the top crepe with 2 tablespoons sugar and caramelize with the torch; otherwise, dust with confectioners’ sugar. Slice like a cake.

Batter adapted from ‘’Joy of Cooking.'’ Pastry cream adapted from ‘’Desserts,'’ by Pierre Herme and Dorie Greenspan. Serves (IMHO, way more than) 10.

Friday, June 1, 2007

OT - Bottle Deposits

May 27, 2007

The Unintended Consequences of Hyperhydration

It’s easy to find, in the mightily expanding iconography of American waste, the monumental (a ziggurat of flattened cars), the sinister (ocher sludge foaming on a riverbank) and the sublime (a plastic bag fluttering in a Japanese maple). The empty bottle and crushed aluminum can are none of these. They are almost too commonplace to notice, too dreary to evoke anything at all. Foundered on a roadside or slumped in a bag of spent Chinese takeout, the can without its Mountain Dew and the bottle without its Bud are unremarkable things. They’re just trash: something we once wanted and now can’t be bothered with.

Eleven states — California, Connecticut, Delaware, Hawaii, Iowa, Maine, Massachusetts, Michigan, New York, Oregon and Vermont — give this valueless stuff a value, however. Typically we pay a nickel when purchasing a container and get the nickel back if we return the container for recycling. It’s a deposit, a contract binding us to our garbage. Though these days, that nickel may elicit only the faintest twinge of regret as we toss the empty into the trash and rejoin our busy lives. More than three decades since it was first legislated, the transaction that the so-called bottle bill sets in motion — pay a nickel, recoup a nickel — is the same as ever. The world surrounding it, though, is almost unrecognizable.

Oregon passed the country’s first deposit law in 1971, and as one native Oregonian told me, “We don’t have too many firsts.” So in February in Salem, hearings to dust off and modernize the law began with a certain romantic pride. Oregon’s speaker of the house called the bottle bill “an Oregon institution” and described tacking toward floating bottles and scooping them out of the Columbia River while learning to sail with his father. The Senate president credited the bottle bill with making him want to become a legislator. “I just think it’s part of being an Oregonian, that you return your bottles and cans,” he said.

Representative Vicki Berger, a Republican from Salem, introduced herself as “the only living witness to the actual birth of the Oregon bottle bill.” Berger, who is largely spearheading the reforms, is the daughter of a fabled citizen-activist, Richard Chambers, who proposed the first bill, a man subsequently described to me as “a voice in the wilderness” and “totally prophetic.” Berger called the law “part of our mythology.” For others it was a “shining beacon” and “the one bill more than any others that Oregonians identify with.”

Never, it seemed, had such a ceremony been made over trash. Except that this same thing has been going on, almost perennially, in state legislatures across the country for decades. Bills to update existing laws or pass one in a non-bottle-bill state typically flail around in committee until, clobbered by the powerful grocery and beverage industry lobbies or skipped over for sexier environmental issues, they disappear. This year, however, the Oregon campaign, along with similar ones in New York and Connecticut, have gained greater traction.

Bottle bills are still surprisingly good at inspiring recycling and reducing litter. But, though they are idiosyncratic in every state, the vast majority of the laws share one colossal, unanticipated flaw: they place a deposit on beer and carbonated beverages only. The bottle bill’s scope, and to some extent the very vision of a more waste-conscious world that first motivated it, has been swiftly trivialized by the ubiquity of bottled water. This year, Americans will drink more than 30 billion single-serving bottles of water. Oregonians will throw out about 170 million empty ones. Those same bottles, filled with something fizzy, would carry nickel deposits.

“That was the stupidest thing we ever did,” says a veteran of the original Oregon campaign. The laws were written in a different era, a less health-obsessed one, when drinking out of a bottle or can meant drinking beer or soda. If bottled water, teas, juices and energy drinks existed at all, they were quaintly called “new-age beverages.” (“In the late ’70s,” one bottled-water executive urged me to keep in mind, “no one was putting on little shorts and running in the streets.”) Bottled water, Berger says, “is what’s truly different from 1971,” which is why she and others are battling to expand their bottle bills to include it.

From there, proposals often seek to fix a mess of other unanticipated dysfunctions and complaints. For starters, no state had the foresight to require its nickel deposit be adjusted for inflation. That nickel is now worth about a penny in 1971 terms, and redemption rates have depressed — except in Michigan, the only state with a dime deposit, where the rate remains 97 percent. Other states have tried to move to a dime. What’s more, in most states, if we toss the can, or even if we dutifully put it in our curbside recycling, our nickel quietly remains with the beverage-distributing company to which we first paid it. This year, the Bigger Better Bottle Bill campaign in New York is making its sixth attempt to redirect those unclaimed deposits — estimated at $100 million each year — into a state environmental fund. “It’s the people’s nickel,” says Judith Enck, Governor Spitzer’s deputy secretary for the environment.

Opposing such changes are disgruntled bottlers, distributors and grocers. Americans buy about 215 billion beverage containers every year, more than quadruple those bought in 1971. Steadily, these industries have been forced to sacrifice more space, time and money to run shadow businesses that are, as if out of a surrealist novel, haunting reversals of their regular businesses: trucks shuttle from store to store picking up empties; clerks hand customers money for grimy containers of air. Including bottled water would only inundate them further.

By now the players on both sides, in each state, all know one another. They issue reports. They recite dueling statistics. But the debate, wherever it happens to flare up in a given year, is essentially a philosophical one. While recycling advocates rail against society’s wastefulness as a solemn problem, so much of that society relies on the freedom to throw things out as a solution to problems. As naïve as it looks, the bottle bill forces the very contemporary environmental question of whether those who sell a product, not to mention those who use it, should be accountable for its mess — and just how accountable, and at what cost. By Day 3 in Salem, one dumbstruck grocer, pressed after his testimony, finally blurted out: “Are we responsible for all the containers and all the garbage we sell?” He meant it as a rhetorical question. But it’s precisely the question that, for 36 years, everyone has been getting together to hash out.

The People’s Lobby Against Nonreturnables

Opponents often denigrate the bottle bill as an old antilitter law, ill equipped to do the 21st-century job of recycling. But the ethos behind it was more forward-thinking than is commonly remembered.

Richard Chambers sold plywood production equipment. Before dying of cancer in 1974, he climbed every peak in Oregon and to the highest point in every state. On a Sunday morning in 1968, returning from a walk on the beach near his house in Pacific City, Chambers saw an article in the newspaper that his teenage daughter was reading over breakfast. It described a proposed deposit system in British Columbia. “And he says: ‘That’s it. That’s the answer,’ ” his daughter, Vicki Berger, told me recently. Immediately, Chambers called a state representative, a young black-sheep Republican named Paul Hanneman. The call woke up Hanneman. Soon the two men were standing near the town’s only intersection, grimacing at the mess of broken glass Chambers spotted there on his walk: a typical Saturday night’s detritus.

The beverage industry was changing, as were its consumers’ expectations. For decades, producing glass bottles was so costly that bottlers operated their own deposit systems to ensure they got them back. Beer usually came in glass “stubbies,” each with a deposit of a few cents. A stubby could be returned to any local bottler, regardless of its brand. There it was sterilized, scrubbed clean of its label and refilled. A single container could be repurposed as many as 30 times. But by the ’60s, aluminum cans were ubiquitous, and glass bottles were shedding their deposits. The convenience of these new “one way,” or disposable, containers was marketed enthusiastically. By 1970, nearly 40 percent of America’s packaged soda and 75 percent of its packaged beer came in one-ways.

“We could see the returnables disappearing,” Paul Hanneman, now 70 and retired, told me in the house near Pacific City where he has lived since childhood. The morning I visited, he had unearthed 300 copies of letters Chambers sent, often while overseas for business, to strum up support for the bottle bill. Chambers collected hotel stationery, hoping letterhead from Zaire would make his cause look important.

Hanneman first introduced the bottle bill in 1969. The idea — to put an artificial value on what everyone increasingly saw as worthless — was swiftly crushed. “The industry people came down on us like crazy,” he said. As convenient as one-ways were for consumers, they also alleviated great hassle and expense for grocers and bottlers. Those businesses themselves were becoming one-way, less hobbled by having to take back empties. Many bottle-washing lines, where containers were sterilized, were already dismantled. Hanneman was accused of trying to turn back the clock, ordering major corporations to jump through so many impracticable hoops in his one, inconsequential state that ultimately the whole industry might collapse. Businesses and unions, normally enemies, sat together on the same side of the hearing room. On the other side, Hanneman told me, “you’ve got Rich Chambers sitting all by himself”: a 6-foot-4, 275-pound man, needlepointing assiduously to calm his nerves. “He’d get so wound up. He’d say, ‘If we don’t reverse the trend now, nonreturnables, especially cans, are going to be so numerous we’ll never beat these people.’ ”

In 1971, when Hanneman and Chambers reintroduced the bill, modern environmentalism was just forming in the unfocused afterglow of the first Earth Day a year earlier. It was a moment when discussing humankind’s negligent stewardship of the planet and simply picking pieces of litter off its surface were both seen as deeply ecological acts. As an outdoorsman, Chambers loathed litter as a blight on the landscape. But he was also fearful of the broader wastefulness it signaled. He kept compulsive files on the resources needed to manufacture aluminum cans. An ad-hoc group called PLAN, the People’s Lobby Against Nonreturnables, studied the energy that a deposit program could conserve.

“My father understood fully about resource management,” Berger says, but “he was a salesman first.” Only by trumpeting the bottle bill as an antilitter measure could Chambers and Hanneman find the support they needed. Fighting litter was straightforward; it felt good. Gov. Tom McCall championed the bill exhaustively, telling the press he would “put a price on the head” of every bottle and can. This time, an unlikely coalition staggered in on Chambers’s side of the hearing room. “You had some younger people with longer hair sitting right next to a guy in big overalls from the Linn County Farm Bureau,” Hanneman said. “They were from all around the state — some urban, some rural. They hadn’t been to the Capitol before and really didn’t know what to do. All they knew was that they ought to go there.”

Opposition intensified. Before one hearing, a small cavalcade of private jets landed at the Salem airport, carrying various industry representatives from the East Coast. Jerry Powell, who volunteered for Chambers as a graduate student and now edits the trade magazine Resource Recycling, says the men came off as bullies and outsiders. For starters, “they called it ‘Oregoan,’ ” Powell says, still irritated. Local businesses meanwhile stepped up with crucial support, particularly five northwest breweries that hoped the bill might handicap the Anheuser-Buschs of the world, however slightly. (Freed from the cost of shipping bottles in two directions, national companies were now outcompeting local ones.) The bottle bill ultimately passed, Powell argues, because of “locals talking to locals.” “Incidentally,” he adds, “all five of those breweries are out of business now.”

Eric A. Goldstein of the Natural Resources Defense Council describes the first bottle bills emerging at a time when nationalizing markets were making goods more affordable and convenient, but also further detaching consumers from their environmental costs. The one-way soda can is only convenient because we can throw it out when we’re finished and don’t have to worry where it goes. So is the Bic razor, the paper towel, the disposable camera and the Swiffer mop head. “As significant as the bottle-bill legislation is,” Goldstein says, “the growing movement toward a throwaway society that started in the ’60s and ’70s is an even larger trend.”

Berger told me: “My father envisioned a world where we were overburdened with trash. He wasn’t aiming for recycling in the sense we know it, but recycling in the sense he knew it, which was that the bottle would go back to the bottling plant and get refilled.” (Chambers put a sticker over the toilet in the family’s beach cabin that read: “Rejoice! You’re Refillable!”) “I think his real purpose was to conserve that system” — to preserve the tidy, closed loop the industry was allowing to diffuse. “And in that sense,” Berger said, “the bottle bill was a failure.”

Today a great many of Oregon’s returned glass bottles are trucked to a plant near the Portland airport. There, they accumulate in towering piles. Then they are melted down and made into new bottles.

The Old Jalopy

Despite the elaborate overhauls first discussed, the updated bottle bill that passed out of the Oregon senate and into the House last month was essentially what Berger called the “just add water” option. It would place a 5-cent deposit on bottled water.

The change is far more complicated and politically ambitious than it sounds, given that grocers, stuck with the bottle bill’s grunt work, have traditionally been opposed to any expansion. Last year, The Oregonian reported that, before any changes were even introduced, Joe Gilliam, president of the Northwest Grocery Association, issued this warning to a meeting of stakeholders: “We can sit back and kill bottle bills. We’ve got the money to do it. We’ve got the political know-how to do it.”

Not long ago, Gilliam and I visited a store in northeast Portland together. It was a Fred Meyer, a chain of large-scale retailers. We met at the bottle house, a cement structure resembling a bus terminal near the edge of the parking lot. There, people fed empties into “reverse vending machines,” which scanned the barcodes and issued redemptions. An employee stood by to switch out the bins and hand-count any containers mistakenly rejected. The store fills three trucks with empties every week. Adding water, Gilliam speculated, would at least double that volume. That means twice as many machines in a bottle house twice as big. And if that happens, he said, pacing into the lot with his arms extended, you run into compliance problems with parking, access to public transportation and so on. Some grocers also warn that funneling garbage into grocery stores has health risks. “The bottle bill is basically maxed out on its capacity,” Gilliam said. “They’re going to have to do something far more innovative to make it work at this point.”

Meanwhile, as is the case in most states, Oregon’s beverage distributors — who via the grocers, collect and refund the deposits — claim they are being defrauded. They are refunding nickels for out-of-state containers on which they never collected a deposit in the first place. In Portland, bottles and cans flood in from the nearby suburbs in Washington, a state with no bottle bill. (“Seinfeld” fans will remember Kramer driving a mail truck full of empties to the 10-cent Promised Land of Michigan.) A cooperative of Oregon distributors says this fraud almost entirely cancels out, and in some years exceeds, the windfall of unclaimed deposits it gets to keep.

Bottled-water companies claim that, because water is not distributed in strict territories like soda and beer, keeping track of their nickels will be even more difficult. In Maine, one of two states so far to expand its law to include bottled water, Nestlé Waters North America says it handed back $815,000 more in nickels than it collected last year. (Globally, Nestlé owns 72 different brands of water, including Poland Spring, Deer Park and Arrowhead.) Brian Flaherty, a Nestlé spokesman who has testified in Connecticut and Oregon, told me those states are trying to drag the water business into an already dysfunctional system. They’re trying to “update the old jalopy,” Flaherty said.

The grocery and beverage industries largely advocate relying on curbside recycling instead — the programs by which homeowners set out bins at the ends of their driveways for collection. They argue that running a deposit program — a separate system just for beverage containers — is redundant. It may even be counterproductive. In Connecticut, a recycling contractor warns that placing a deposit on noncarbonated beverages, and thus inspiring more people to recycle those containers at stores, would divert at least $900,000 of recyclable material from the curbside bins. Such losses of revenue can threaten the financial viability of the curbside programs altogether.

The rise of municipal curbside recycling is yet another thing the bottle bill’s authors couldn’t have predicted. Bottle-bill proponents note that nearly half of Americans don’t have access to curbside recycling and maintain that it does a poor job of capturing containers commonly consumed away from home, like bottled water. But curbside still has a way of complicating their arguments, or at least of exposing just how stubbornly idealistic their vision actually is. If the goal is to conserve resources, it seems unfair that someone who conscientiously recycles his bottles and cans at the curb rather than at the grocery store loses his nickels regardless. I told this to Betty McLaughlin of the Container Recycling Institute, a tiny nonprofit that serves as a nerve center for bottle-bill advocates. McLaughlin disagreed, categorically. People drive to the grocery store regularly anyway, she said. If they took their empties with them, and if states put deposits on even more products, the volume of curbside material would drop, and the haulers’ trucks could make fewer trips. That would result in a net — though small, it seems — reduction in greenhouse-gas emissions.

More important, McLaughlin said, curbside is financed by municipalities; the bottle bill is designed to hold industry accountable for the disposal of its products. This accountability has practical, not just philosophical, benefits: forcing companies to take back their empties has ensured they make their containers recyclable and build markets for the scrap. (It is because of the bottle bill that fleece jackets, mattresses and carpeting are now made from recycled plastic bottles; recycled bottles have become one of the most valuable scrap materials.) Nevertheless, defenses of the bottle bill often boil down to an insistence that the essential rightness of its principle, the idea of producer responsibility, simply outweighs its many other costs and inconveniences — particularly since the bulk of those costs and inconveniences are borne by the industry. That’s only just.

Each side of the debate has its own emphatic standards of fairness and efficiency, and the distance between them was evident earlier this month, when, with an expansion seeming almost inevitable in Oregon, Michael Read of the WinCo Foods grocery chain spoke at a second round of hearings, sounding defeated. Read didn’t bother preparing testimony, he said, because “all of the cogent arguments where we have good data . . . have unfortunately been largely ignored. No one seems to care about the health issues, sanitation issues, space issues, handling issues, efficiency issues, cost issues.” I asked Paul Hanneman how he and Chambers responded to similar objections in 1971, the contentions that the bottle bill would demand calamitous changes to a complex industry. “We said, ‘You figure it out,’ ” Hanneman told me; the state was done paying for those containers as garbage or litter.

In her office one morning, Vicki Berger seemed to share this principled insensitivity. When it comes to bottled water, she said, “when are we going to say enough is enough of this product?” (Berger had previously explained her position on water this way: “The product is zilch! You’re buying a friggin’ container!”) Now she handed me a bottle from a little collection she kept. The brand was called Oregon Rain; its slogan, “Virgin Water Harvested From Oregon Skies.” “This is my poster child,” she said. “It’s laughable.” Then to prove this, Berger laughed.

Water

Singling out bottled water is unfair. All successful products cater to our values, and it may be that, in water, we see our unflattering reflection most clearly. Steve Emery, president of the Oregon-based bottled-water company Earth20, told me, “It’s funny that people think if you add a lot of sugar to the water, it’s better than just providing water.”

Bottled water is invaluable for those without reliably safe drinking water or during disaster relief. But the product thrived only after Americans were accustomed to, even reliant on, buying single servings of soda while on the go — in the convenience stores and little delis the industry calls “immediate consumption channels.” This year, Americans will drink more than nine billion gallons of bottled water, nearly all of it from polyethylene terephthalate, or PET, plastic bottles. Water, together with other nonfizzy drinks, accounted for 90 percent of the growth of the entire beverage industry between 2002 and 2005. By the end of the decade, they are expected to outsell soda.

Despite the chicness of certain brands, the market is dominated by hundreds of more workaday waters. Brands like Crystal Geyser, Kirkland and Arrowhead function as tap water for a country that spends most of its time away from the tap. While even the most pedestrian waters invoke the grandeur of their source — a secluded spring, a glacial brook — Gary Hemphill of the Beverage Marketing Corporation says, “As far as consumers go, I don’t sense that they really care one way or the other.” We just want water. “If you could put your kitchen sink on your back and carry it around with you, the bottled-water industry might not be as big as it is today.”

Michelle Barry of the market research firm the Hartman Group told me, “Water is not really critically considered” — not even the object itself, it seems. “We believe bottled water has become less about the physical act of hydration and more about being a companion to people,” she said. “They like to walk around with it and hold it.” Increasingly, the typical consumer sips out of a bottle of water “to mark time.” “It’s like their bangie,” Barry added, meaning a security blanket. Or rather, each bottle of water is one in a readily available cast of interchangeable security blankets that we can capriciously acquire and toss throughout the day.

Several industry people told me that water’s most exciting growth is now in sales of large multipacks or flats of single-serving bottles — stockpiles that we keep in our pantries or garages and grab a few bottles from on our way out the door. The obvious question then is, why not fill up a reusable bottle from the tap and take that with us. “If you’re on the go, and you’re buying something to consume on the go,” Barry told me, “that assumes you don’t have the time for preparation before you go. You need that ultimate convenience.” It follows that you don’t have time to shepherd around that bottle once it is empty either.

Americans will throw out more than two million tons of PET bottles this year. Even when recycled, it is hard to turn scrap PET into new bottles. More virgin material is always necessary. PET is a petroleum product; it comes from oil. The Container Recycling Institute estimates that 18 million barrels of crude-oil equivalent were needed to replace the bottles we chucked in 2005, bottles that were likely shipped long distances to begin with —from Maine or Calistoga or Fiji.

Whether more states manage to put deposits on bottled water or not, we have become real-life grotesques of the disconnected, profligate consumer the bottle bill saw coming and, waving a roll of nickels, tried to fend off. I easily bought more than a dozen bottles of water while working on this article.

Redemption

Three weeks ago, the Northwest Grocery Association proposed its own startling modernization of the Oregon bottle bill. The State Legislature, Joe Gilliam told me, “hasn’t understood or really wanted to understand” how devastating its just-add-water expansion would be to grocers. Grudgingly resigned to some kind of expansion, Gilliam came to the table at the 11th hour with a more grocer-friendly, radical reinvention of the system: all carbonated and noncarbonated beverages and liquor would carry nickel deposits, and new, state-run redemption centers — not grocers — would handle the returns. They’d also collect materials like home electronics. Grocers would help finance the redemption centers and relinquish all unredeemed deposits to a state anti-litter program.

A legislative committee promptly ignored this proposal, however, passing the original expansion to the full chamber, where, as of last week, it awaited probable passage. Meanwhile, after rocketing through one house of the State Legislature, Connecticut’s expansion was recently killed in committee. (Proponents have promised to resurrect the measure as part of another bill.) New York’s “Bigger Better Bottle Bill” continued to gain unprecedented momentum, though it still faced some discouraging resistance in one house.

“It probably won’t go through this year,” the Rev. Dr. Earl Kooperkamp told me last month. Kooperkamp helped introduce the Bigger Better Bottle Bill campaign six years ago. He is 50 now, with an odd little braid of hair that swishes at the back of his clerical collar. He had invited me to Saint Mary’s Episcopal Church in Harlem, to a monthly meeting he holds for “canners,” those who scour the city for bottles and cans for a living. The meeting is part support group (he helps those harassed by grocers file complaints) and part long-range planning committee (he envisions canners lobbying for improvements to the law). He is confident that, if the deposit were raised to a dime, more than enough containers would still be abandoned to keep his canners in business. Kooperkamp calls the group the Redeemers.

It’s unclear how big a share of America’s recycling the homeless and working poor do. Clearly it is considerable. The Container Recycling Institute reports that an average of 490 beverage containers are recycled per person per year in bottle-bill states. Yet many canners told me that they can easily earn a daily wage of 20 or 30 dollars; each then recycles upward of 600 containers every day. When proponents argue that bottle bills are the best way to capture containers consumed on the go, it’s not because a frenzied Dr. Pepper drinker will make a scrupulous detour to return the can, but because, when that can is inevitably thrown out, a scavenger might retrieve it.

In Manhattan, many canners start at the tip of the island after the first Statue of Liberty ferries have sailed. They hit Wall Street as lunch is ending and wind up in Times Square to pick up after the pretheater stampede. Since canners may not get to a grocery store before closing, Kooperkamp describes the rise of “mobile redemption,” middlemen in trucks who buy loads late at night, two for a nickel. Fearing overnight theft, many canners in Portland sleep beside their containers at bottle houses. Though few in Portland find it worth their time to dig through garbage; most work set routes, emptying each neighborhood’s curbside bins on its designated recycling night — a situation that may signal a breakdown of both systems.

While we sat in the church foyer waiting for Redeemers, Kooperkamp explained that, in Leviticus, the Bible issues laws about leaving the corners of your fields for the poor to harvest. “It’s saying that something has to be left that somebody else can make use of,” he said. “What the Redeemers are doing is gleaning the fields, sustaining their lives in a way that actually ends up making life better for all of us.” Still, Leviticus had to remind us to leave some for the gleaners. Today enough useful detritus seems to flake off our lives by itself that an entire underground economy traffics in our trash.

The bottle bill created an economic incentive for something its authors felt we ought to do for its own sake. It was a mandate to recycle rather than litter but, more broadly, to stay mindful of the tension between convenience and conscientiousness — to stay tethered to our waste as, more and more, that connection slackened. Talking with Kooperkamp, I realized that canners may be the only ones even remotely living the principle of the bottle bill as Richard Chambers envisioned it, and only then, out of desperation.

“A good number of the Redeemers see that they’re doing a real service,” Kooperkamp said, “cleaning up after us, taking care of the environment.” Some come to see picking up a can — replacing it into the cyclic narrative from which it strayed — “as running totally opposite to our egocentric, convenience-driven, disposable culture.” It can be a deeply connective act. “I went to seminary,” Kooperkamp told me. “I learned all about redemption. Redemption is about taking something that is worthless and giving it value, about taking that worthless thing and changing it into something life-sustaining.” Jean Rice, a canner in the Bronx, summed it up this way: “Five years ago, I used to call myself a canner. But now I call myself an ecological engineer.”

After an hour, it was clear that no Redeemers would show. Kooperkamp apologized, reached for his cup of coffee (paper, with a plastic sip-top) and stood up. His whole demeanor said, Ah well, maybe next time. These guys have pressing difficulties in their lives, he said. He understood why they might not be focused on the long-term.

Thursday, May 31, 2007

Lemon Rosemary Baked Tofu from Moosewood: New Classics Rest.


Serves 2 to 4
Prep: 15 minutes
Bake: 1 hour

Preheat oven to 400.

Rosemary Lemon Marinade

1/4 cup fresh lemon juice
2 Tbsp soy sauce
3 Tbsp vegetable oil
1 Tbsp minced fresh rosemary or 1 Tsp dried.
1/4 Tsp ground pepper.

Cut tofu into 1/4 inch slices. Pour 1/2 marinade into baking pan. Add Tofu and pour remaining marinade over. Bake turning after 30 minutes.

veggies? from kim o'd onnel

RE: Greens: This may not be for everyone (it gets cooked down into mush), but I enjoy cooking various types of greens (mustard and kale, particularly) a la saag paneer (Indian curried spinach with cheese). You can even veganize it with baked tofu/soy dairy, if paneer isn't available or not your thing. The Food Network Web site has a good recipe; you may need to modify the cooking time for the greens (spinach cooks in minutes; collards not so much).

Kim O'Donnel: Thanks. Great idea.



Saag Paneer
Recipe courtesy Tyler Florence
Show: Food 911
Episode: Vegetarian Curries

2 pounds fresh baby spinach, washed and stems trimmed
1/4 cup ghee, recipe follows
1/2 pound cubed paneer cheese
2 yellow onions, finely chopped
3 garlic cloves, minced
1 teaspoon freshly grated ginger
1 teaspoon curry powder, recipe follows
1/2 cup buttermilk
1/4 cup plain yogurt
Salt
Bring a large pot of water to a boil, toss in the spinach and blanch for 1 minute until very tender. Dump the spinach into a colander and press firmly with the back of a spoon to extract as much water as possible, set aside.

Heat the ghee in a deep skillet over medium-high flame. Add the cubed paneer and fry for a couple of minutes until light brown on all sides, gently turning to avoid breaking up the cubes. Remove the cheese from the skillet and set aside.

Return the skillet to the heat and sauté the onions, garlic, and ginger; cook and stir for about 5 minutes until soft. Sprinkle the mixture with the curry powder; continue to stir to marry the flavors, about 1 minute. Fold in the chopped spinach and give everything a good toss. Shut off the heat and stir the buttermilk and yogurt into the spinach to incorporate. The mixture should be creamy and somewhat thick. Gently fold in the fried paneer cubes, season with salt, to taste, and serve with steamed basmati rice and/or flat bread.

Ghee:
1 pound unsalted butter
Put the butter in a heavy saucepan over moderate heat, swirl the pot around to ensure that it melts slowly and does not sizzle or brown. Increase the heat and bring the butter to a boil. When the surface is covered with foam, stir gently and reduce the heat to the lowest possible setting. Gently simmer, uncovered, and undisturbed for 45 minutes, until the milk solids in the bottom of the pan have turned golden brown and the butter on top is transparent. Strain the ghee through a sieve lined with several layers of cheesecloth. The ghee should be perfectly clear and smell nutty; pour into a glass jar and seal tightly.

Yield: 1 1/2 cups

Curry Powder:
2 tablespoons coriander seeds
1 tablespoon cumin seeds
1 teaspoon fennel seeds
1/2 teaspoon whole cloves
1/2 teaspoon mustard seeds
1 tablespoon cardamom seeds
1 tablespoon whole black peppercorns
2 dried red chiles, broken in pieces, seeds discarded
1 tablespoon turmeric
Toast the whole spices (coriander, cumin, fennel, cloves, mustard, cardamom and peppercorns) and the chiles in a small dry skillet over medium-low heat, shaking the pan often to prevent them from burning. Toast for a couple of minutes until the spices smell fragrant. In a clean coffee grinder, grind the toasted spices together to a fine powder. Add the turmeric and give it another quick buzz to combine. Use the spice blend immediately, or store in a sealed jar for as long as 1 month.

Yield: about 1/2 cup

OT - Computer Recycling

The Mossberg Solution: Where Computers Go When They Die --- As More People Upgrade, Recycling Becomes a Concern; Shredding Your Hard Drive
By Katherine Boehret
1017 words
11 April 2007
D1
English
(Copyright (c) 2007, Dow Jones & Company, Inc.)

Getting rid of an old computer is a predicament that people face when their systems slow down or break down.

That's especially true now as more users decide to buy computers running Microsoft's recently released Windows Vista operating system. Apple Inc.'s campaign encouraging users to switch to its platform from Windows has also contributed to PCs piling up in basement corners.

But where should all this old equipment go? And what happens once it is taken away? How can you be sure that your private data aren't being exposed? And will being a tree hugger turn out to be too costly?

If you're looking to recycle your old system -- monitor, computer tower and printer -- you might think the only option is to search for a local drop-off spot. But surprisingly, most big-name computer manufacturers offer their own recycling programs, some of which come right to your door.

Each company has its own methods, which makes the process more confusing for consumers. Some take old computers away, but charge you around $30 for the shipping and handling. Others will reward you for buying one of their systems by offering to remove your old system free. Below, you'll find some general guidelines for getting your computer out of your house.

-- Which company does what?

Dell Inc. offers home pickup of any old Dell equipment anytime, free. It will also pick up any brand of computer or printer free with the purchase of a new Dell PC or printer. Details can be found at www.dell.com/recycling .

Hewlett-Packard Co.'s recycling procedures are a bit more complicated. At anytime, the company offers to pick up and recycle your old equipment, regardless of brand, but charges $13 to $34 per product for shipping and handling. You will be compensated for each product with a $30 to $50 coupon to be used at www.hpshopping.com , where you can buy products from H-P. Recycling details for H-P can be found at www.hp.com/recycle .

Lenovo's ThinkPlus Recycling Service offers prepaid shipping labels for $30 each to be used for sending any manufacturer's old system, monitor, printer and peripherals to Lenovo for recycling or refurbishment. Lenovo doesn't offer a home pick-up service. Once received, Lenovo uses a designated center to recycle your materials and sends reusable equipment to Gifts In Kind International, a charity specializing in product philanthropy.

Apple is different still. Like Lenovo, it doesn't offer home pick-up but will receive all brands so long as you buy a $30 shipping label from the company's Web site. With the purchase of any new Mac through Apple's Web site or at one of its retail stores, you'll receive an email with instructions and shipping codes for up to two prepaid boxes. These can be used for shipping any old equipment, regardless of manufacturer, to Apple for recycling. Details can be found at: http://www.apple.com/environment/recycling/program .

Apple's retail stores will accept all manufacturers' rechargeable batteries as part of a program run by the Rechargeable Battery Recycling Corp., a nonprofit organization. These stores also accept unwanted iPods for recycling and take 10% off the purchase of a new iPod in exchange for your old one.

-- What about my data?

When recycling, almost all companies vow to mechanically shred your hard drive. But they also suggest that you take responsibility for your data and delete them to be safe.

Various software programs let you clear out your hard disk on your own. Symantec's Wipe Info in Norton Utilities and System Works ( http://symantec.com ) will help on Windows PCs and Macs. Webroot Software Inc.'s Window Washer ( http://www.webroot.com ) is another option for Windows, and Jiiva Inc.'s SuperScrubber ( http://www.jiiva.com ) is an alternative for Macs. I haven't tested these programs, and there are many others that do the same thing.

-- What happens to my computer?

Generally speaking, after your computer is sent to a recycling plant, it is disassembled and its materials are separated, melted down and reused. H-P, which has been recycling computers since 1987, says it will have collected and recycled one billion pounds of used products by the end of this year. The company uses some materials over again in its own products, such as plastics that are melted down, combined with plastics from recycled water bottles and used to make one of H-P's scanners.

-- Recycling alternatives

Plenty of other groups, such as the National Cristina Foundation ( http://www.cristina.org ) and Share the Technology ( http://sharetechnology.org ) specialize in distributing reusable computers to people or organizations in need of computers.

For the most part, the best systems for reuse are those that are less than five years old. A good rule of thumb is to donate your computer as soon as possible, so you don't forget about it before it becomes outdated.

Microsoft specializes in PC refurbishment by partnering with TechSoup, a tech nonprofit, and by labeling groups as Microsoft Authorized Refurbishers. These groups, which are located around the world, receive low-cost software licenses so they can install Windows and Office programs on refurbished computers for distribution to low-income families, nonprofit and educational institutions. In the U.S. alone, over 100,000 licenses have been supplied to 400 such groups. A list of them can be found here: http://www.microsoft.com/mar .

With Earth Day coming on April 22nd and "going green" becoming a fashionable proclamation, you're sure to find more and more options for recycling your computer or sending it away to someone who can refurbish it. One way or another, your old computer can be used for much more than gathering dust in a basement corner.

---

Edited by Walter S. Mossberg

Wednesday, May 30, 2007

vanilla ginger cherry tartine (tartine gourmande)

Vanilla and Ginger-Flavored Cherries on a Tartine

(For 4 Tartines)

You need:

  • 4 nice country bread slices (sourdough is lovely)
  • 4 prosciutto slices
  • 7 oz whole milk (sheep) ricotta
  • 1/2 lime
  • 1 tsp sherry vinegar
  • 12 cherry tomatoes
  • 12 black cherries
  • 1/2 vanilla bean, seeds removed
  • A little ginger root, finely grated
  • 4 Tbsp fruity olive oil
  • 1 Tbsp balsamic vinegar
  • 1 tsp whole canne sugar
  • Fresh basil
  • Salt and pepper

Steps:

  • Place the cherries in a bowl and coat with 3 Tbsp olive oil, the juice of 1/2 lime, the vanilla seeds and grated ginger. Let rest for 30 min.
  • Mix together the ricotta with freshly chopped basil, salt and pepper and 1 tsp sherry vinegar. Keep.
  • Heat 1 Tbsp olive oil in a pan and cook the cherries for about 2 to 3 min, then add the marinade juice if any, 1 Tbsp balsamic vinegar and 1 tsp cane sugar. Cook for 1 to 2 min.
  • When ready to eat, add fresh basil coarsely chopped to the cherries.
  • Toast your bread slices.
  • Spread the ricotta on top of the bread. Top with a slice of prosciutto, three cherry tomatoes and cherries per tartine. Eat with an arugula or mâche salad.

blueberry and raspberry almond ricotta cupcakes (cupcake bakeshop)

Blueberry & Raspberry Ricotta Almond Cupcakes with Cream Cheese Frosting29

Posted by chockylit in Berries, Nuts, Cheese, Italian-Inspired (Sunday May 20, 2007 at 12:42 pm)
blueberry ricotta almond cupcake with cream cheese frosting

It was bound to happen. Can’t be pregnant, be a cupcake baker, and not make pink and blue cupcakes, right? I made these for the last day of birthing class. We have a snack break every class and it’s always filled with healthy savory treats. So, while I was bringing cupcakes, I wanted to make them relatively “healthy” (without sacrificing taste, of course).

This recipe is a slight variation from one I made a while back. I wanted to try using fresh almonds (hooray for vitamin E and “good” fat) instead of almond paste. The resulting cake was good, but not “almondy” enough. Next time around I would add a half teaspoon of almond extract. I actually really liked the grainy texture that the ground almonds added. But if this sounds unappealing to you, stick to the almond paste (or really grind the hell out of your almonds). As with the last recipe, this one turned out very moist. I could see these standing up to a few days of refrigeration.

I figured between the almonds, the berries, the eggs, the ricotta, and the cream cheese, I ended up with a fairly balanced treat. Fruits, healthy fats, protein, etc. to counter the heavy dose of sugar (yum, sugar). But to keep myself honest, I used my copy of Accuchef software to calculate the nutritional value. Scroll to the very end if you are curious, but perhaps some things are better left unknown…

On a side note, I have had to turn on comment moderation for the time being. So while it may seem like your comment has been posted, it will not show up on the blog until I approve it. This will hopefully be temporary. If anyone has any questions about this, feel free to email me directly.

Cupcakes
~15 cupcakes / 350 degree oven

4 ounces almonds, slivered/peeled
1 cup + 2 tablespoons sugar
1/2 cup whole milk ricotta cheese
1 stick butter, unsalted/room temp
4 eggs, large/room temp
2/3 cup flour
1/2 teaspoon baking powder
1/8 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup raspberries
1/2 cup blueberries

1. Grind almonds with 2 tablespoons sugar in a food processor until very fine. Transfer to the bowl of an electric mixer.
2. Gradually add the remaining 1 cup of sugar to the ground almonds while beating at low speed.
3. Add the ricotta and beat to combine.
4. While beating at low speed, add a tablespoon of butter at a time, waiting for the butter to incorporate until adding the next pat. The butter must be at room temperature or it will not incorporate well.
5. Stop the mixer, scrape the bowl, then beat at medium for about 2 minutes.
6. Crack eggs into a bowl and break up with a fork. At low speed gradually add eggs about a tablespoon at a time, waiting for the eggs to incorporate until adding the next bit.
7. Beat again at medium speed for about 2 minutes.
8. Measure out flour, salt, and baking powder into a bowl and whisk to combine.
9. With a rubber spatula, fold flour mixture into the cake batter until combined.
10. Wash and dry the berries. Toss with a small amount of flour. This will help keep the berries from sinking.
11. Fold berries into the batter.
12. Scoop batter into cupcake liners, about 2/3s full.
13. Bake at 350 for about ~25 minutes or until cake tester comes out clean

Note: I wanted “pink” and “blue” cupcakes so I divided the batter in two and added blueberries to one and raspberries to the other. You could do this, mix the berries, or even use different fruit.

blueberry ricotta almond cupcakes cooling
cooling cupcakes

Cream Cheese Frosting

12 ounces or 1-1/2 packages of Philly cream cheese
1/2 stick butter
4-5 cups sifted powdered sugar
1 teaspoon vanilla

1. Bring butter to room temperature by letting it sit out for 1 or 2 hours.
2. Sift powdered sugar into a bowl or onto parchment.
3. Beat butter and cream cheese at medium speed until creamy.
4. Add 4 cups of the powdered sugar and vanilla. Beat until combined.
5. Add more sugar until you get to the consistency and sweetness you like.

Assembly
1. Frost cupcakes.
2. Top with a candy decoration, berries, or slivered almonds.

Note: I kneaded store-bought white fondant with gel food coloring, rolled out with a little corn starch to prevent sticking, and stamped out small shapes to top the cupcakes.

blueberry & raspberry ricotta almond cupcakes with cream cheese frosting

Approximate Nutritional Value per Serving

Without frosting
Per Serving: 216 Cal (50% from Fat, 9% from Protein, 41% from Carb); 5 g Protein; 12 g Tot Fat; 5 g Sat Fat; 5 g Mono Fat; 23 g Carb; 1 g Fiber; 16 g Sugar; 51 mg Calcium; 1 mg Iron; 78 mg Sodium; 84 mg Cholesterol

With frosting
Per Serving: 478 Cal (43% from Fat, 6% from Protein, 52% from Carb); 7 g Protein; 23 g Tot Fat; 12 g Sat Fat; 8 g Mono Fat; 63 g Carb; 1 g Fiber; 56 g Sugar; 70 mg Calcium; 1 mg Iron; 167 mg Sodium; 117 mg Cholesterol

Tuesday, May 29, 2007

basic marshmallow recipe

Basic Marshmallow Recipe

Ingredients:
2 Packets of Unflavored Gelatin (Very important: must be unflavored)
1/2 cup water
1 & 1/2 tsp flavoring oil or extract (In this case LorAnn Champagne flavor or McCormick Raspberry extract)
1 & 1/2 cups sugar
1/2 cup corn syrup
pinch of salt

1. Put 1/4 cup of water, gelatin, and one flavoring oil into standing mixer. Allow to sit for a few minutes so that the gelatin can "bloom."

2. In a large saucepan put the remaining water, corn syrup, sugar, and salt. Clip a candy thermometer to the side of the pan. Bring to a boil without stirring. When the mix reaches the soft ball stage (234 - 240 degrees) remove from heat.

3. Pour sugar mixture into standing mixer. Bring mixer up to high. Allow this to mix for about 8 minutes.

Marshmallow Making!

4. Pour the now white mixture into an oiled deep pan. Allow to set for about 8 hours.

5. Cut into squares (or other shapes) with an oiled knife. Dip all sides of the marshmallows into corn starch to make them less sticky.

Some notes:

* I've used this recipe with lots of different flavorings, including mint, and orange. I find that flavoring oils seem to work the best. I've seen posted online recipes that call for using crushed candies in place of some of the sugar -- this would probably be a great thing to try.

* The type of pan you use to set the marshmallows will determine how big they are. A deep pan will mean thick marshmallows. A very wide pan could mean very thin ones.

* If you have a standing mixer and candy thermometer, this is one of the easiest recipes in the world. If you don't have those things it can be kind of tricky. I have made them without both pieces of equipment, it just means being really careful at the stove and then standing around for a long time with a hand-mixer. It can definitely be done.

Friday, May 25, 2007

berry epicurious

BLUEBERRY HILL CUPCAKES

Freezing the berries before adding them to the batter prevents them from sinking to the bottom and from discoloring the cupcakes.

Maple sugar can be found at some supermarkets and natural foods stores.

Cupcakes
3 1/4 cups all purpose flour
1 1/4 cups sugar
1 tablespoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon coarse kosher salt
1/4 teaspoon baking soda
6 tablespoons (3/4 stick) unsalted butter, melted
1/4 cup canola oil
2 large eggs
1 cup buttermilk or low-fat yogurt
1 cup whole milk
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 teaspoon grated lemon peel
1 1/4 cups fresh blueberries, frozen for 4 hours

Frosting
2 1/4 cups powdered sugar
10 tablespoons (1 1/4 sticks) unsalted butter, room temperature
1/2 cup plus 2 tablespoons maple sugar
1/2 teaspoon coarse kosher salt
1 1/4 teaspoons vanilla extract
4 teaspoons (or more) whole milk

1 cup chilled fresh blueberries
Fresh mint sprigs (optional)

Preheat oven to 350°F. Line two 12-cup muffin pans with paper liners. Sift flour and next 4 ingredients into large bowl. Whisk melted butter and oil in medium bowl. Add eggs; whisk to blend. Whisk in buttermilk, milk, vanilla extract, and peel. Add buttermilk mixture to dry ingredients; whisk just to blend. Stir in frozen blueberries. Divide batter among liners.

Bake cupcakes until tester inserted into center comes out clean, about 23 minutes. Transfer cupcakes to racks; cool.

For frosting:
Combine first 5 ingredients in medium bowl. Add 4 teaspoons milk. Using electric mixer, beat until well blended and fluffy, adding more milk by teaspoonfuls if dry (small granules of maple sugar will still remain), about 4 minutes. Spread frosting over top of cupcakes.

Garnish cupcakes with chilled berries, and mint sprigs, if desired. (Can be made 4 hours ahead. Store in airtight container at room temperature.)

Makes 24.

Bon Appétit
June 2005

BLACK-BOTTOM RASPBERRY CREAM PIE

The "black bottom" is a layer of superb chocolate pudding — plus a chocolate cookie crust. The pie must be chilled overnight before the topping is added.

Crust
Nonstick vegetable oil spray
1 3/4 cups crushed chocolate wafer cookies (about 30 cookies from one 9-ounce package)
1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, melted
1/4 cup sugar

Filling
1/2 cup sugar
1/4 cup unsweetened cocoa powder (preferably Dutch-process)
2 tablespoons cornstarch
2 1/2 cups whole milk, divided
2 large egg yolks
1 large egg
4 ounces bittersweet (not unsweetened) or semisweet chocolate, finely chopped
2 tablespoons (1/4 stick) unsalted butter

Topping
3 1/2-pint containers raspberries
1 cup chilled whipping cream
2 tablespoons powdered sugar
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract

For crust:
Spray 9-inch-diameter glass pie dish with nonstick spray. Blend cookie crumbs, butter, and sugar in medium bowl. Press mixture evenly over bottom and up sides (not on rim) of prepared dish. Chill crust 30 minutes.

Preheat oven to 350°F. Bake crust until set, about 10 minutes, then cool.

For filling:
Combine sugar, cocoa, and cornstarch in heavy medium saucepan; whisk to blend well. Gradually add 1/4 cup milk, whisking until cornstarch dissolves. Whisk in remaining 2 1/4 cups milk, then egg yolks and egg. Stir over medium-high heat until pudding thickens and boils, about 8 minutes. Remove from heat. Add chocolate and butter; whisk until melted and smooth. Spread pudding in prepared crust. Press plastic wrap onto pudding to cover and chill pie overnight.

For topping:
Peel plastic wrap off pie. Cover chocolate layer with raspberries, pointed side up, pressing lightly into chocolate to adhere (some berries will be left over). Beat cream, sugar, and vanilla in medium bowl until peaks form; spread over berries on pie. Arrange remaining berries atop cream. Chill pie at least 1 hour and up to 4 hours.

Makes 8 to 10 servings.

Bon Appétit
July 2004

RASPBERRY CAKE WITH MARSALA, CREME FRAICHE, AND RASPBERRIES

Raspberries are both baked in this tender, moist cake and served with it.

1 1/2 cups all purpose flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
1 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon baking soda
1/4 teaspoon ground nutmeg
1/2 cup Marsala
1/4 cup fresh orange juice
14 tablespoons (1 3/4 sticks) unsalted butter, room temperature
1 cup plus 4 tablespoons sugar
2 large eggs
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 teaspoon grated lemon peel
4 cups fresh raspberries

2 cups crème fraîche or sour cream

Position rack in center of oven and preheat to 400°F. Butter 10-inch-diameter springform pan. Whisk first 5 ingredients in medium bowl to blend. Combine Marsala and orange juice in small bowl. Beat 12 tablespoons butter and 1 cup sugar in large bowl until well blended. Beat in eggs, vanilla, and lemon peel. Beat in Marsala mixture in 2 additions alternately with flour mixture in 3 additions. Transfer batter to prepared pan. Sprinkle with 1 1/2 cups raspberries.

Bake cake until top is gently set, about 20 minutes. Reduce oven temperature to 375°F. Dot top of cake with 2 tablespoons butter and sprinkle with 2 tablespoons sugar. Continue baking until tester inserted into center of cake comes out clean, about 15 minutes. Cool in pan on rack. Release pan sides; transfer cake to platter. Cool to room temperature.

Mix crème fraîche and 2 tablespoons sugar in small bowl. (Cake and crème fraîche mixture can be made 8 hours ahead. Let cake stand at room temperature. Cover and chill crème fraîche mixture.) Cut cake into wedges. Top each with dollop of crème fraîche and fresh raspberries and serve.



Makes 10 servings.

Bon Appétit
June 2002