1 (3-ounce) package thinly sliced pancetta (Italian bacon), chopped
3 tablespoons butter, divided
1 cup (scant) sliced shallots (3 large)
1 1/2 teaspoons minced fresh rosemary, divided
2 cups mashed peeled red-skinned sweet potatoes (yams)
3 1/2 cups (or more) low-salt chicken broth
1 cup (1/3-inch) cubes country-style sourdough bread
Sauté pancetta in heavy large saucepan over medium-high heat until crisp, about 5 minutes. Using slotted spoon, transfer pancetta to paper towels.
Add 1 1/2 tablespoons butter to drippings in same saucepan; add shallots and reduce heat to medium. sauté until shallots are soft and golden, about 4 minutes. Stir in 1 teaspoon rosemary, then mashed sweet potatoes and 31/2 cups broth. Bring to boil. Reduce heat to medium-low and simmer 10 minutes to blend flavors, adding more broth by 1/4 cupfuls to thin soup, if desired. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Puree soup in blender or processor if necessary.
Meanwhile, melt remaining 11/2 tablespoons butter in small skillet over medium-high heat. Add bread cubes and remaining 1/2 teaspoon rosemary and sauté until croutons are crisp and golden, about 3 minutes.
Ladle soup into bowls. Top with croutons and pancetta and serve.
Makes 4 servings.
CHICKEN SOUP WITH WILD MUSHROOMS AND HERBED MATZO BALLS
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
1 3-pound chicken, cut into pieces
2 large onions, cut into 1-inch pieces
12 cups water
3 celery stalks, cut into 1-inch pieces
3 fresh parsley sprigs
2 bay leaves
Matzo Balls
1 ounce dried shiitake mushrooms
2 cups hot water
1/3 cup chicken fat (reserved from stock or purchased)
4 large eggs
2 tablespoons chopped fresh chives
1 1/2 tablespoons minced fresh tarragon or 1 1/2 teaspoons dried, crumbled
1 1/2 teaspoons salt
1/4 teaspoon pepper
1 cup unsalted matzo meal
3 1/2 quarts water (14 cups)
1 teaspoon minced fresh tarragon or 1/4 teaspoon dried, crumbled
Minced fresh chives
For Soup:
Heat oil in heavy large pot over medium-high heat. Add chicken and onions and cook until brown, stirring frequently, about 15 minutes. Add 12 cups water, celery, parsley and bay leaves. Bring to boil, skimming surface. Reduce heat and simmer gently until reduced to 8 cups, about 5 hours. Strain into bowl. Cover and refrigerate until fat solidifies on top. (Can be prepared 2 days ahead.)
Remove fat form soup and reserve fat for matzo balls.
For Matzo Balls:
Place shiitake mushrooms in small bowl. Pour 2 cups hot water over. Let soak until softened, about 30 minutes.
Melt 1/3 cup chicken fat and cool. Combine melted chicken fat, 1/4 cup shiitake soaking liquid (reserve remainder), eggs, 2 tablespoons chives, 1 1/2 tablespoons tarragon, 1 1/2 teaspoons salt and 1/4 teaspoon pepper in medium bowl and beat to blend. Mix in matzo meal. Cover and refrigerate 3 hours. (Can be prepared 1 day ahead. Cover mushrooms in soaking liquid and refrigerate.)
Measure 3 1/2 quarts water into large pot. Salt generously and bring to boil. With dampened hands, form cold matzo meal mixture into 1-inch balls and add to boiling water. Cover and boil until matzo balls are cooked through and tender, about 40 minutes. (To test for doneness, remove 1 matzo ball and cut open.) Transfer matzo balls to plate, using slotted spoon. (Can be prepared 1 day ahead. Cover tightly and refrigerate.)
Drain mushrooms, reserving liquid. Thinly slice mushrooms, discarding stems. Combine remaining mushroom soaking liquid, mushrooms, chicken soup and 1 teaspoon fresh tarragon in heavy large saucepan and bring to simmer. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Add matzo balls and simmer until heated through. ladle soup into bowls. Garnish with chives and serve.Serves 8.
CHEESE MATZO BLINTZES WITH ASPARAGUS AND DILL
Active time: 1 1/4 hr Start to finish: 2 1/2 hr
For crêpes
2 1/2 cups whole milk
1 1/3 cups matzo meal
4 large eggs
1/4 cup vegetable oil plus additional for brushing skillet
1/2 teaspoon salt
For filling
1 lb medium asparagus, trimmed
3 cups small-curd cottage cheese (4% milkfat; 24 oz)
1/4 cup finely chopped fresh dill
1 large egg, lightly beaten
1/2 teaspoon black pepper
1/4 teaspoon salt
For topping
1/2 stick (1/4 cup) unsalted butter
2 bunches scallions, trimmed and cut into 1-inch pieces
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/4 teaspoon black pepper
2 tablespoons chopped fresh dill
Make crêpes:
Blend milk, matzo meal, eggs, oil, and salt in a blender until smooth. Let batter stand 30 minutes.
Stir batter before using. Lightly brush a 10-inch nonstick skillet with oil and heat over moderately high heat until hot but not smoking. Holding skillet off heat, pour in 1/3 cup batter, immediately tilting and rotating skillet to coat bottom. (If batter sets before skillet is coated, reduce heat slightly for next crêpe.) Return skillet to heat and cook crêpe until top is set and edge and bottom are golden, about 1 minute. Remove skillet from heat and loosen edge of crêpe with a flexible heatproof spatula. Quickly invert skillet over a plate to release crêpe. Make 11 more crêpes in same manner, brushing skillet lightly with oil for each and stacking crêpes on plate as cooked.
Put oven rack in middle position and preheat oven to 350°F.
Make filling:
Cook asparagus in a wide 4- to 5-quart pot of boiling salted water, uncovered, until just tender, about 5 minutes. Transfer asparagus with a slotted spoon to a cutting board to cool. Cut off and reserve tips, then finely chop stalks.
Stir together cottage cheese, chopped stalks, dill, egg, pepper, and salt.
Assemble blintzes:
Put 1 crêpe, paler side up, on a work surface and spread a scant 1/3 cup of filling in a horizontal line just below center of crêpe, leaving a 3/4-inch border at each end. Fold in sides of crêpe over ends of filling, then, beginning at bottom, roll up to enclose filling. Transfer, seam side down, to a lightly buttered 15- by 10-inch shallow baking pan. Fill and transfer remaining 11 crêpes in same manner.
Bake blintzes, covered with foil, until filling is hot, 30 to 35 minutes.
Make topping just before blintzes are ready to serve:
Heat butter in a 10- to 12-inch skillet over moderate heat until foam subsides. Add scallions and cook, stirring, until tender, about 5 minutes. Stir in asparagus tips, salt, and pepper and cook, stirring, until asparagus is heated through, 1 to 2 minutes. Remove from heat and stir in dill. Spoon topping over blintzes.
• Crêpes can be made 1 day ahead, cooled completely, then wrapped tightly in plastic wrap and chilled.
• Asparagus can be cooked (but not chopped) 1 day ahead and chilled, covered.
Makes 4 to 6 main-course servings.
PORCINI MATZO POLENTA WEDGES
See how to finely chop herbs.
Active time: 30 min Start to finish: 1 1/2 hr
1 medium onion, chopped
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 cup chopped porcini (reserved from the braised veal with gremolata, or 1 oz dried porcini, softened in boiling water and chopped)
1 1/2 tablespoons finely chopped fresh basil
1 1/2 cups chicken broth
1 1/2 cups water
3/4 cup unsalted matzo meal
Cook onion in 1 tablespoon oil in a 12-inch nonstick skillet over moderate heat, stirring occasionally, until lightly browned, 5 to 7 minutes. Add porcini and cook, stirring, 2 minutes. Cool, then stir in basil and season with salt and pepper.
Bring broth and water to a boil in a 3-quart heavy saucepan. Gradually add matzo meal, whisking, and simmer, whisking constantly, until thickened, 1 to 2 minutes. Reduce heat to low and gently simmer, stirring occasionally, until very thick, about 2 minutes more. Stir in porcini and salt and pepper to taste. Spread polenta in an oiled 9-inch glass pie plate and let stand until firm, about 1 hour.
Cut polenta into 12 wedges. Heat remaining tablespoon oil in skillet over moderate heat until hot but not smoking, then cook wedges until crisp and golden brown on both sides, about 15 minutes total.
Cooks' note:
• Polenta (spread in pie plate but not fried) can be made 1 day ahead. Cool, uncovered, then chill, covered. Bring to room temperature before frying.Makes 6 servings.
MINIATURE STRAWBERRY ECLAIRS
Eclairs
Matzo cake meal
1 cup water
1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted pareve margarine, diced
2 tablespoons sugar
3/4 teaspoon kosher salt
1 cup matzo cake meal
4 large eggs
1 egg, beaten to blend (for glaze)
Pastry Cream:
3/4 cup sugar
5 tablespoons potato starch
1 tablespoon matzo cake meal
2 cups liquid nondairy creamer
5 large egg yolks
1/4 cup (1/2 stick) unsalted pareve margarine, diced
1 1-inch piece vanilla bean, split lengthwise
1 teaspoon grated lemon peel
2 tablespoons brandy (kosher for Passover)
Berry Sauce:
1 1/2 1-pint baskets strawberries, hulled
1 cup frozen unsweetened raspberries, thawed
1/4 cup sugar
2 1-pint baskets strawberries, hulled, halved
For Eclairs:
Preheat oven to 400°F. Line 2 heavy large baking sheets with foil. Grease foil; dust with matzo cake meal. Combine water, margarine, sugar and salt in heavy medium saucepan. Stir over medium-high heat until mixture boils. Add 1 cup cake meal and beat with wooden spoon until mixture comes together into ball, about 1 minute. Remove from heat. Using handheld electric mixer, add 4 eggs 1 at a time and beat until smooth after each. Transfer batter to pastry bag fitted with large (1/2- to 5/8-inch) plain round tip. Pipe out 3-inch-long logs onto prepared sheets, spacing evenly. Brush tops with glaze, using brush to smooth shape where necessary.
Bake pastries until firm and deep golden brown, reversing sheets halfway, about 35 minutes. Cut small slit in side of each pastry to allow steam to escape. (Can be made 1 week ahead. Freeze in heavy sealable plastic bags. Bake frozen pastries on baking sheet in 400°F. oven until hot and crisp, about 8 minutes; cool before using.)
For Pastry Cream:
Combine sugar, potato starch and cake meal in heavy medium saucepan; whisk to blend. Gradually whisk in nondairy creamer, then yolks. Add margarine, vanilla bean and lemon peel. Whisk over medium heat until very thick and just beginning to bubble, about 8 minutes. Whisk in brandy. Transfer to small bowl; discard vanilla bean. Refrigerate uncovered until cold, stirring occasionally, about 6 hours.
For Sauce:
Puree 1 1/2 baskets strawberries and raspberries in blender or processor. Strain. Mix in sugar, refrigerate until chilled. (Pastry cream and sauce can be prepared 1 day ahead. Cover, keep chilled.)
Cut off top third of pastries. Press down any dough in center. Whisk pastry cream to smooth if necessary. Fill bottom of each pastry with about 1 tablespoon pastry cream. Overlap 3 strawberry halves on cream. Arrange top of pastry over strawberries. (Can be prepared 6 hours ahead; refrigerate.)
Arrange 2 éclairs on each plate. Serve with berry sauce.Makes about 24.
FRIED CHICKEN WITH SPRING SALAD
For salad
1 lemon, halved
8 baby artichokes (1 lb)
7 tablespoons olive oil
1 tablespoon plus 1/2 teaspoon salt
2 tablespoons cider vinegar
1 teaspoon coarse-grain mustar
1 teaspoon sugar
1/4 teaspoon black pepper
3 tablespoons chopped fresh dill
1/2 lb asparagus, trimmed and very thinly sliced on a long diagonal
2 oz mesclun or other delicate salad greens (6 cups)
For chicken
3/4 cup matzo meal
3/4 teaspoon salt
1/2 teaspoon black pepper
2 large eggs
4 skinless boneless chicken breast halves (2 lbs)
1 cup vegetable oil or a combination of vegetable and olive oil
Prepare salad:
Squeeze juice from 1 lemon half into a bowl of water, then drop same half into water.
Cut off artichoke stems and discard. Cut off top 1/2 inch of 1 artichoke with a serrated knife.
Bend outer leaves backward until they snap off close to base, then discard several more layers of leaves in same manner until you reach pale yellow leaves with pale green tips. Cut off green tips.
Trim dark green fibrous parts from base and sides of artichoke with a small sharp knife, then rub cut surfaces with other lemon half. Drop artichoke into acidulated water. Trim remaining artichokes in same manner.
Put 1 1/2 quarts water in a 3-quart saucepan and stir in 1 tablespoon oil and 1 tablespoon salt, then bring to a simmer. Remove trimmed artichokes from acidulated water with a slotted spoon, then add to simmering water. Cook, partially covered, until stem ends are tender when pierced with a small sharp knife, 12 to 14 minutes. Transfer with a slotted spoon to a cutting board and, when cool enough to handle, quarter artichokes lengthwise.
Whisk together vinegar, mustard, sugar, pepper, and remaining 1/2 teaspoon salt in a small bowl or glass measure. Add remaining 6 tablespoons oil in a slow stream, whisking until combined well. Whisk in dill.
Combine artichokes and raw asparagus in a bowl and toss with all but 1/4 cup of vinaigrette. Chill, covered, or let stand at room temperature until ready to serve.
Fry chicken:
Whisk together matzo meal, 1/4 teaspoon salt, and 1/4 teaspoon pepper in a shallow bowl or pie plate. Lightly beat eggs with 1/4 teaspoon salt in another shallow bowl or pie plate.
Pat chicken dry and sprinkle with remaining 1/4 teaspoon each of salt and pepper. Coat chicken in egg, letting excess drip off, then dredge in matzo meal, pressing chicken into crumbs to help them adhere. Transfer chicken to a plate, arranging in 1 layer, as dredged.
Heat oil in a 12-inch heavy skillet (2 to 3 inches deep) over moderately high heat until hot but not smoking. Reduce heat to moderate, then fry chicken, turning over once with 2 spatulas, until golden and just cooked through, about 14 minutes. Transfer to paper towels to drain.
Divide greens among 4 plates and top with artichokes and asparagus. Serve fried chicken alongside, drizzled with some of remaining vinaigrette.
Cooks' notes:
• Chicken can be fried in 2 batches if necessary to avoid crowding. If frying in 2 batches, keep cooked chicken warm on a baking sheet in a 250°F oven.
• Vinaigrette, without dill, can be made 6 hours ahead and chilled, covered. Whisk in dill just before using.
Makes 4 servings.
PASSOVER BROWNIES WITH CHOCOLATE-WINE GLAZE
For brownies
6 oz bittersweet or semisweet chocolate, chopped
1 stick (1/2 cup) unsalted margarine or (if not keeping brownies pareve) butter, cut into pieces
3 large eggs
1 cup sugar
1/8 teaspoon salt
2 teaspoons finely grated fresh orange zest
3/4 cup matzo cake meal
3/4 cup walnuts, coarsely chopped (3 oz)
For glaze
3 tablespoons sugar
2 tablespoons unsweetened cocoa powder (not Dutch process)
1/3 cup sweet red kosher wine such as Concord
2 oz bittersweet or semisweet chocolate, chopped 3/4 stick (6 tablespoons) unsalted margarine or (if not keeping glaze pareve) butter, cut into pieces
16 walnut halves
Make brownies: Preheat oven to 350°F. Line bottom and sides of a 9-inch square baking pan with wax paper or greased foil.
Melt chocolate and margarine in a metal bowl set over a saucepan of barely simmering water, stirring until smooth. Remove from heat and cool 5 minutes.
Beat eggs, sugar, and salt in a large bowl with an electric mixer on high speed until pale and thick. Beat in chocolate in 3 batches on low speed. Stir in zest, matzo meal, and nuts just until blended.
Spread batter in baking pan and bake in middle of oven until firm and a tester comes out clean, 25 to 30 minutes. Cool in pan on rack, then invert onto a platter and remove paper or foil.
Make glaze: Whisk together sugar, cocoa, and wine in a small saucepan. Bring to a boil, whisking, then simmer 2 minutes, whisking occasionally. Add chocolate and whisk until melted. Remove from heat and whisk in margarine until smooth. Chill glaze, stirring occasionally, until spreadable.
Spread glaze over brownies and arrange walnut halves on top. Cut into 16 squares with a large knife, wiping it off with a damp cloth between cuts.
Cooks' note:• Brownies keep in an airtight container 1 day.
Makes 16.
VANILLA CHIFFON CAKE WITH CHOCOLATE SORBET
1 1/2 cups sugar
1/2 cup matzo cake meal
1/2 cup potato starch
1 1/2 vanilla beans, chopped
1/2 teaspoon coarse salt
7 large eggs, separated
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
2 tablespoons brandy
Chocolate Sorbet
Preheat oven to 350°F. Blend 1/2 cup sugar, matzo cake meal, potato starch, vanilla beans and salt in processor until beans are finely chopped. Sift mixture into small bowl; discard beans in sieve.
Using electric mixer, beat egg whites in large bowl until medium-firm peaks form. Gradually add 3/4 cup sugar, beating until stiff but not dry. Using the same beaters, beat yolks and 1/4 cup sugar in another bowl until thick, about 5 minutes. Gradually beat in oil, then brandy. Beat in matzo mixture. Fold in whites in 3 additions.
Transfer batter to ungreased 10-inch-diameter tube pan with removable bottom. Bake until tester inserted near center comes out clean, about 37 minutes. Immediately invert center tube pan onto narrow-neck bottle. Cool completely. (Can be made 1 day ahead. Cover cake in pan.)
Cut around pan sides to loosed cake. Cut into wedges; serve with sorbet.Makes 8 Servings.
HAZELNUT MACAROON AND STRAWBERRY TART
2 12-ounce baskets strawberries, hulled, diced
3/4 cup sugar
3 tablespoons Passover brandy
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice
Pinch of ground cloves
Crust
Matzo cake meal
2 cups husked toasted hazelnuts
1 cup sugar
1/8 teaspoon salt
Pinch of ground cloves
1 large egg
1/4 teaspoon almond extract
3 1-pint baskets strawberries, hulled, thinly sliced
For filling:Combine all ingredients in heavy large skillet. Stir over high heat until sugar dissolves and mixture comes to boil. Boil until very thick, stirring frequently, about 13 minutes. Cool in pan. (Can be prepared 2 days ahead. Transfer to small bowl, cover and refrigerate.)
For crust:
Position rack in center of oven and preheat to 350°F. Line 11-inch tart pan with removable bottom with heavy-duty foil, pressing firmly into scalloped sides of pan. Grease foil and dust with matzo cake meal. Finely grind nuts, sugar, salt and cloves in processor. Add egg and extract and process until mixture just holds together. Reserve 1/2 cup dough for another use. Using moistened fingertips, press remaining dough onto bottom and up sides of prepared pan. Bake until crust is golden, crinkled and feels dry, about 13 minutes. Cool crust completely in pan on rack. Remove tart pan sides. Carefully peel foil off crust. Return crust to pan. (Can be prepared 1 day ahead. Wrap tightly and store at room temperature.)
Spread filling over crust. Starting at edge of tart, cover tart with berry slices in overlapping concentric circles, with first circle leaning against crust edge. (Can be prepared 3 hours ahead. Chill.)
Remove tart from pan. Cut into wedges and serve.Serves 12.
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